斗羅河上的精靈
Martin Berdugo
Ribera del Duero 區和鄰近的 Rioja 是西班牙最重要的兩個產區,成名甚早的 Vega Scilia,近代的瘋狂農業工程師 Alejandro Fernandez 所領導的 Pesquera 酒莊和丹麥人 Peter Sisseck 所打造的 Pingus 是 Ribera del Duero 的領頭羊。Ribera del Duero 法定產區在 1982 年成立時僅有 24 個酒莊,但到了 2018 年已經來到 300 多間酒莊,可見得這個產區和潛力無窮。這裡氣候是典型的大陸型氣候,白天高溫日照充足,夜間因高海拔而寒冷,此外土壤相當多樣化,常見的是沙壤土和黏土,也有石灰岩,因此即便同一塊葡萄園種出的葡萄也有可能成熟度都不同。這裡種植著西班牙最重要的品種 Tempranillo,往往釀成高酒精且濃厚飽滿且具陳年實力的紅酒。
Martín Berdugo 酒莊的歷史可以追溯到前幾個世紀,現今葡萄園是由 Josefina 與其夫 Enrique 以及三個孩子 Antonio、Bruno、P epa 一起持有,在家人支持下於 1990 年重新整理、種植,所有的葡萄藤至少 30 年。酒莊擁有佔地 87 公頃的葡萄園,由 5 個地塊組成,高度約海拔 800 公尺,地形向西南傾斜,土壤多是礫石,沙子和大量巨石的石質沖積土壤。底土由一層石灰石礫石下面的粘土組成。這些土壤和底土非常適合濃縮風味和香氣,並提供了沖積礦物的複雜豐富口感。大陸型氣候加上擁有必要的 30 年老藤成熟度,因此釀製出具有風格、可口、剛中帶柔、穠纖合度的葡萄酒。
Martín Berdugo 尊重自然環境,以生物動力法種植及釀造,想傳達出各個不同葡萄園地塊的精髓及歷史,將西班牙最重要的紅葡萄品種 Tempranillo 表現出柔滑的質地,具有顯著香氣和風味,例如草莓,紅醋栗和黑醋栗。也跳脫 Ribera del Duero 以往給人的雄厚強勁酒風印象,Martín Berdugo 釀造的葡萄酒靈動輕盈,宛如在 Duero 河谷上的精靈們各自唱著不同曲調卻又和鳴般融洽譜成一首俏皮輕快的樂章。
Documents held by the family show that our south-facing estate on the banks of the River Duero east of the city of Aranda has been used to cultivate grapes for at least 200 years. New plantations began in the late 1980s and by 1990 our single vineyard estate had taken shape. There comes a moment when a vineyard’s age begins to pay quality dividends and experts agree this occurs at the 30-year mark.
Our south-facing vineyard is on a ledge some six meters above the River Duero where a chequerboard of alluvial soils: gravel, silt and light clay, offers our vines a wealth of minerals. An average age of 30 years gives our vines the maturity necessary to make increasingly characterful, intense and flavorful wines.
01Our Philosophy
During the early years of the vineyard’s growth we sold our grapes to other wineries. It quickly became clear that our vineyard was capable of concentrating flavours and aromas in grapes. Our approach then turned to harnessing this potential to make increasingly identifiable and special wines.
Anticipating a time when the vineyard’s fruit would become exceptional, a modern winery was built among the vines in 2000. It was designed to use gravity to move grapes to fermentation tanks. This is the gentlest and least intrusive method which protects the quality of the fruit.
We have a talented team of experts, each one of them is passionate about great wine.
At the heart of our winery is the family. Winemaking was relaunched when Josefina Martín Berdugo planted new vines with the assistance and support of her husband Enrique and their three children Antonio, Bruno and Pepa. From left to right, Antonio is responsible for the day-to-day operations. Enrique retired from a lifetime in medicine. Bruno is a successful designer whose flair is visible everywhere in the winery. Josefina, whose investment in her ancestral lands has made our wines a reality, is the powerhouse behind this family enterprise. Pepa, the youngest member, divides her time between professional activities and visits to the estate.
The key to transforming excellent fruit into fine wine is teamwork.
We consider ourselves fortunate to count on some of the most talented professionals in the business.